Tuning and Rigging

The mainsheet

Most top sailors use the metric size between ¼" and 5/16", 10 mm. Yale light or something similar runs through the blocks nicely. 44’ with an eight knot 4" from the end leaves a short tail to grab if it is let out to the ratchet accidentally.
The new auto ratchets are great and really help the sheet go out for aggressive downwind sailing. Mainsheet cleats are also good, especially for getting the vang on. The little Ronstan minis aren’t too painful to sit on and hold the sheet well.

The vang

A swivel at the base is necessary, ideally one with bearings that rotates easily. Some swivels have ¼" pins, so the vang tang needs to be drilled out to accept this. The other way to go is to get bushing washers and use a standard 3/16" pin, so the vang can be taken from boat to boat easily. The pin may bend a little, so it is good to have a few spares. 3/16" Samson spectra should be tied so when the bowline purchase hits the block at max ease it causes a little tension on the boom. This ensures a full range of travel. (If there is so much slack that the vang is easy to hook into the boom, it won’t be possible to get enough vang tension in breeze.) A slip-knot loop handle is a must, and some people have a tail after that to tie to the daggerboard so it can always be reached.

The outhaul

3/16" Samson spectra with two thimbles, 22’ a hitch around the long part (from cleat to mast) included in the knot that holds the front thimble works great to keep the whole thing up.

The clew tie

Many sailors are used to either a bolt-roped foot or an outhaul car, something that makes the clew travel along the boom without going up. It’s important to teach that the clew tie effectively makes a track for the clew, and tying it snugly to the boom is the hallmark of a careful job rigging. 1/8" Samson spectra 30" Three laps around boom allows tying a square knot tight enough. Mc Lube the boom and tie down before every race day so it slides well.

The cunningham

3/16" Samson spectra with two loops. There are diagrams with three loops, but the added friction offsets the purchase gain. The top bowline placement is critical for max travel.

The traveller

3/16" vectran , 9’. A large loop bowline that the line runs through with a single hitch allows the loop to be pulled very tight and is relatively easy to unrig.

Hiking strap

May need to be shortened so there is room for enough adjustment. A 10-12" between the aft edge of the cockpit and the strap is good.

Strap bungee

1/8", about 2’ depending on strap. Makes a loop through strap and under traveler behind cleat. A square knot will eventually come undone. Tie overhand knots in each tail and push them tight against the square knot.

Strap Adjuster

6’ of 3/16" pre-stretch (spectra is too slippery), looped around and back.

Battens

Those little ends like to come off and get stuck in the sail. Glue them on

Tell tales

Three sets - one for upwind near the luff, one in the middle of the top 1/3 of the sail, and one for by the lee two feet in from the leach. Light yarn works nicely because it isn’t too jumpy.

Wind Vane

A windvane or long yarn in front of the mast is great for light air when it’s shifty and for learning angles downwind.